Humans of Yonsei

For many, cheese is considered an imported food, and there is a perception that what we can consider as ‘real’ cheese is restricted to imported cheeses from traditional European brands. Imported cheeses with proven quality for hundreds of years indeed have a stable taste, but there is an individual in South Korea who managed to discover unique tastes with his high-quality cheeses, captivating gourmets, and the public. Cho Jang-hyun, an alumnus who has changed the direction of his life from an ordinary corporate office worker to the realm of cheese, is now recognized as one of Korea's leading cheese artisans and experts. Fascinated by cheese, the most essential food that mankind has consumed for centuries, Cho strives to make 'good cheese' with extensive research full of passion.

Encountering a New World With the Freedom of ‘Doing Something Else’
Cho’s life at Yonsei can be described as an encounter with the creative world. Having an interest in painting, Yonsei’s art club 'Whawoo' was a place where he could feel and enjoy the reality of art. The experience from the club was a significant turning point that later motivated Cho’s transition from an ordinary office worker to a chef, finding a new direction in life and taking on the challenge of change.

“I think I’ve always been interested in creative work. I majored in mechanical engineering, but I also had architecture in mind before. I have loved drawing since I was young, and while deciding on a club upon entering Yonsei, I came across the Whawoo Art Club. Whawoo art club was a gathering of students with an artistic temperament and unique colors, and I was greatly influenced by the sensibility they created, their keen awareness of the world, and their atmosphere of trying to create something new. I think I was trying to pursue and think about something that wasn't quite as obvious. Back then, I didn’t know that it would be such a difficult road. (laughs)”

Although Cho had found his path as well as the joy of ‘doing something else’, he still chose the life of an office worker at a large corporation after graduation. At the age of 26, right after graduation, he married to Han Hye-seon (Dept. of Nursing, '86), a fellow alumnus and a member of the Whawoo Art Club, leading him to consider realistic issues. Initially, Cho looked for a more creative field as a career rather than that of his major, which led him to apply to a large advertising company.

“The advertising field is a bit more creative in nature than others. It looked cool. So I went for the interview. At the interview venue, everyone except me was wearing a suit. Perhaps it was common sense to wear one, but I didn't know since it was my first formal interview. I recall myself wearing a turtleneck with a jacket. And I remember the interviewer asking, 'Why are you dressed like that?' It was nerve-wracking, but I got a notification that I passed the interview. Perhaps they considered this a trait of unique character? I think the company preferred someone who broke free from stereotypes.”

Though Cho did not make it to the final round of selection, the experience remains a happy memory. Leaving his regrets behind, he began his career at Samsung Aerospace, which runs a factory automation business, followed by a position at Samsung Electronics.

Choices and Challenges That Completely Changed the Direction of Life

At Samsung Electronics' overseas export team, Cho worked in the business management department, selling products to business partners and exporting them; something similar to what we saw in the drama 'Misaeng: Incomplete Life’. One might think that, given his personality, he would have found the work boring.  However, life as a salesman was stimulating, with his work involving frequent overseas travels that not only broadened his horizons but also exposed him to new experiences. Nevertheless, Cho was soon faced with a time of doubt about his stable yet dynamic corporate life, feeling the need for a new change in life. This moment of introspection coincided with the outbreak of the Asian Financial Crisis (hereafter referred to as the IMF crisis).

“During the IMF crisis in 1997, I realized that corporate life cannot last forever and that it could come to a halt regardless of my will due to external shocks. For the first time, I felt the harsh reality. There were situations where projects in progress were canceled, and colleagues, seniors, and juniors had to resign due to unexpected mergers and consolidations. I was fortunate to keep my job, but I still started to doubt the stability of my job.”

Cho needed a more sustainable means of living. More than anything, he wanted to do something that utilized his strengths, as he looked back on what he excelled and enjoyed. After a long self-reflection with practical considerations, the path he chose was 'cooking'. Although it was a field he had not previously considered, he concluded that 'self-employment' offered a sustainable option where he could make his own decisions with minimal external influence. This triggered his desire to build a professional career in the culinary field. Eventually, Cho made the decision to study abroad at Le Cordon Bleu in London.

“I loved creative work, and I thought cooking was closely related to that. Actually, I thought it would be nice if I could learn how to cook and provide for my family. Initially, I had no intention of starting a big business. With such a concern in mind for a few months, I went to study abroad with my family.”  

Cho’s decision to quit was bound to face objections; it was not a forced resignation by the company and it was apparent to be a path of hardship. However, his wife, fellow alumnus Han Hye-seon, reacted in an unexpected way.

“When my husband said he wanted to study abroad, I supported his decision. I said, ‘That would be fun!’ (laughs) I really did. I have always been more adventurous and optimistic than my husband, and I trusted him to always be sincere and diligent to achieve his goals. Because I had that kind of trust, I wasn’t really scared or anything.”

Life in London was not easy due to financial issues, but thanks to the strong trust they had built for years since their undergraduate days, the couple was able to boldly pioneer a new life.

Experiencing the Joy of Cooking  

“During the first practical session, I practiced dicing ingredients, but my hands felt quite clumsy. Although I was good with my hands, it took some time to adjust to the precise techniques of cooking. However, with a bit of practice, I quickly adapted and found it enjoyable. In addition, I think it suited me well when it comes to creating new dishes, plating them beautifully, and having a sense of beauty in the foods served. It was an immense joy to have something created by my own hands.”

Cooking, which Cho first experienced at Le Cordon Bleu London, was a field that suited him well. Although it was a challenge that began at a relatively later chapter of his life, he enjoyed each step and gradually gained experience working in restaurants. He became increasingly immersed in the world of cooking as he gained practical experience in a variety of high-quality restaurants in London, one of the world’s culinary capitals. Of course, there were many difficulties in studying abroad. Above all, with Cho being with his family, the practical issues at hand became more immediate.

“Those times were a great asset to me, but on the other hand, I always felt uneasy about something. I had no social status or stable income. Eventually, I managed to finish school by repeating the process of learning and taking a break. I was then offered a job at a restaurant that would help me get a permanent residency, but I had a strong desire to return to Korea and start my own business.”

As such, Cho returned to Korea and after a period of preparation, he opened his first restaurant in 2005.

A Successful Trend-Setting Restaurant and Interest in Artisan Food With Consistent Flavors

The first restaurant to open in Seorae Village, <Kitchen Flo>, was a success. It was a massive hit among foreigners in Seorae Village with its Asian restaurant & wine bar concept. Soon after, Cho opened a gastro-pub concept restaurant called <Chef Flo> in Dogok-dong and a second branch of <Kitchen Flo> in Sinsa-dong, seeing great success. Currently, Cho is running one restaurant- <Cheese Flo> in Itaewon.
 
As the name of the restaurant suggests, it is a restaurant with a ‘cheese’ theme. The fact that Cho focuses solely on this restaurant means that he has a great passion for cheese. In fact, he makes his own cheese and also makes charcuterie, such as ham and salumi, that go well with cheese. This was a challenge that was attempted rather early in 2009 when there was not much interest in cheese in Korea.

“I started the charcuterie business first. Then I thought about making cheese, so I bought some milk and tried making it. The kitchen is perhaps the place where we can make all the food we consume in our daily lives. But it wasn’t the case for cheese. Especially in Korea, it was difficult to find books related to this subject, and there was no information available. Though I was able to consistently improve the quality of charcuterie by learning from experts from the United States, there was no foundation for learning about cheese, which made it challenging. But restaurant trends are constantly changing. Even though things might go well at the moment, there's no guarantee that they will last forever. I thought about what I could do consistently without being influenced by trends, and I came to the conclusion that foods like Gochujang (Korean red pepper paste) or Doenjang (Korean soybean paste) in Korea are just like ham and cheese in the West. So this gave me the desire to learn more about charcuterie as well as cheese.”

Cheese Making Requires Continuous Learning and Time

Cho once again decided to study abroad at the Over the Moon Cheese School in New Zealand. He was the first Korean student the school had ever accepted. The actual cheese-making process was closer to 'science' than cooking. Since fermentation and maturation were the basics, this field required the study of food microorganisms, as well as a deep interest in food ingredients and a meticulous eye for everything from the ecology of cattle to the breeding environment. Having mastered the basics of cheese-making, he became more confident in the field, and upon his return to Korea, he started making cheese himself by applying what he had learned. Cheese is the most traditional and essential food. This is the reason why Cho is confident that cheese will still be on our dinner table for another 100 years.

“Cheese is the first food consumed for survival on this planet, long before humans first inhabited the Korean Peninsula. This was something that was stored and consumed in a time when there was no electricity, fire, or refrigerator. Koreans may think of it as foreign food, but in fact, we are initially fed with milk. When it goes into babies’ stomachs and they can't digest it, they vomit it out and it comes out in a lumpy form. This is also a cheese that is created by stomach enzymes. So it's not a foreign food, it's just something that humans have been eating for a long time. It can’t easily disappear in the face of changing culinary trends.”

There was a lot of trial and error during the time that Cho spent making cheese. When the cheese turned out differently than expected, he had to discard it regardless of the time and effort invested. It was something that was difficult to achieve in one go, requiring long hours, trial and error, and taking one step at a time. He has endured long waits and hard work to build up his inner strength. Although he has been dedicated to the world of cheese for more than a decade, Cho says he needs more time.

“It’s a task that requires continuous research and learning. If I were to accumulate more time than I invested so far, it would be possible to create greater value. In 2019, I went to France and learned more about cheese. In France, I learned 'principles' rather than standardized recipes and processes. I was taught why certain processes are necessary for making cheese. Thanks to the experience, I was able to upgrade the quality of the cheese made. It is a field that needs to be continuously learned and developed.”

Ultimately, the cheese he makes comes back to the subject of ‘essence’. It is the most essential food, and it is ‘something one creates’ within the most essential principles.

Competing With Fresh Cheese Alongside Imported Cheese

As Cho accumulated time learning and researching cheese, his cheese has received much attention and positive evaluations. Foreigners, including French, have given positive feedback, and he has even received praise from cheese experts. Experts from cheese-importing companies also visit his restaurant regularly for tastings as well. His cheese is served in restaurants that have received one Michelin star, as well as hotel restaurants, meeting the strict standards these restaurants have regarding ingredients. Many are surprised by the perfection of cheese made from ingredients from Korea, which has a completely different environment from Europe. It's proof that he's making authentic cheese compared to others.

“Once, a Danish gentleman held a restaurant pop-up event and tasted several domestically produced burrata cheeses, and he picked my cheese as the best. I was so proud. It was a moment where I felt that my efforts were worth it and that I was gradually improving as the time I invested gradually accumulated.”

Cho still faces ongoing challenges. Cheese has now become a food that we enjoy eating on a daily basis in Korea. A variety of cheeses from Europe, including France, with long-accumulated experience and high quality, are being imported. Amid this trend, how should Cho’s Cheese differentiate itself from others and continue to develop?

“That is also my Achilles heel. Many questions arise, regarding areas such as quality and price competitiveness. Domestic quality has become less meaningful, and in Europe, raw milk—the key ingredient for cheese—costs half of what it does in Korea, which enhances their price competitiveness. We need to continue producing better quality, but I'm worried that there's a limit to the cost of production. But when I think about all those parts, I shouldn't have even challenged myself in this field in the first place. Taking on a new challenge that others have not done is not an easy road, but change comes through challenges. The journey has long begun, and while I am uncertain about what the future holds, I must continue working until things improve.”

Though facing many limitations, Cho remains committed to quality. His competitive edge lies in fresh cheeses that can be produced domestically and supplied fresh. Cho makes natural cheese through a traditional fermentation process using only raw milk, coagulant, lactic acid bacteria, and salt, rather than relying on mass-produced factory products. He also operates a small-scale, HACCP-certified cheese manufacturing facility in Paju, where he produces fresh cheeses like burrata and ricotta with short maturation and shelf lives. As a result, world-class quality fresh cheese is available on the Cheese Flo website, through distribution channels like Market Kurly, and in fine dining establishments.

Since introducing cheese that was made in-house and aged for over a year on the menu in 2016, <Cheese Flo> has been consistently releasing its own signature cheese. The current signature menu items include 'frozen goat cheese and pear', 'burrata cheese', and 'blue cheese'. Cho’s fruits of hours of hard work have brought great satisfaction to customers, and the restaurant is recognized as one of the best cheese restaurants in the country. There is a steady stream of requests for lectures and inquiries from people who want to learn how to make cheese as well.

To Cho, ‘good cheese’ is made from raw milk produced by good, happy cows in a good environment. And in the process of taking the time to make it, each person's know-how and sincerity go into it. That is the cheese he strives to make. He hopes to continue improving his cheese and, one day, compete in a world competition with his own creations. Of course, before that, he wants to secure raw milk to make his desired cheese and to have manufacturing facilities of the scale and level he envisions. Even today, he is steadily moving towards the future, overcoming the limitations of Korean cheese, with the desire to make better cheese and teach others how to make one.  

The names of Cho’s restaurants always end with 'flo'. This word, which has Latin origins, has no meaning on its own, but changes when followed by a suffix to have various meanings. As can be seen from words such as flourish, flower, and Florencia, the common, essential meaning of their etymology is abundance and prosperity. Perhaps it is in line with his philosophy of cheese, as he constantly ponders the essence of cheese and allows it to mature and develop within himself. That is also why he is determined to move beyond being just a cheese expert chef to becoming an artisan cheese maker, an ' artisan(artisanale)'.